1997 Volvo 850 T5 needs new brake pads all around. Any things to look out for? On my Miata, if you retract the rear piston incorrectly, you trash the caliper. Any similar gotchas to be aware of? Otherwise, is this a straightforward swap? Thanks for any help.

 

Straightforward, just push the pistons back into the caliper.

 

Unlike the Miata, there's no hex bolt on the rear. Just use a c-clamp to compress the piston. - AB

 

Excellent. Last question: is the parking brake a hub/drum type on the 850?

Thanks for the help!

 

you can trash ANY caliper by retracting the piston incorrectly. put an old pad across the piston (as a flat surface for the C-clamp) and slowly retract it. It's very straight forward.

As far as the parking brake goes, you're asking if its a hub/drum type as opposed to what?

 

There are parking brakes that are cable driven directly to the caliper, as compared to what he's talking about which is cable driven to a drum setup inside the hub of the disc. On the 850, it's the latter. - AB

 

It's straight forward, but I had a real problem using a C Clamp to push in the caliper. There is not flat surface on the back of the caliper and it was a pain. I went to Sears and they had a tool that pushed the piston back in the caliper and it was only $11 or 12. I do my brakes often enought to justify paying that. One word of advice, be careful what brand pads you use. I just bought my T5R with practically brand new pads and just took them off tossed them in the trash and put OEM all the way around. Took care of the squealing brakes just like that. I never use anything but OEM on my Volvo's and I've been doing my own brakes since 1985 on Volvo's.

 

oh - I've never seen them any style but the drum for parking brakes.

 

Hi Miatamon,

Haven't heard you for a long time!

Here's a copy from your previous post:

BRAKES:
Brakes on 850 are straightforward, here's the parts you'll need:

GENERAL:
*1. DOT-4 Fluid (I used ATE's Super Blue Racing).
2. Silicone-based grease or CV-joint grease for anti-squeak.
3. A can or 2 of brake cleaner spray.
4. Large C-clamp or 10WR Vise-grip to push back the piston.
*I used Motive Product's One-person bleeder and flushed the system by myself. Available at FCP Groton/Motive Products.

FRONT:
1. New rotors (Brembo or any OEM).
2. New pads (Textar (OEM) or Akebono Ceramic).
3. Synthetic grease for slider pins (The pins are held by 7mm hex (Allen) bolts).
4. New caliper bracket bolts (If the rotor are to be replaced).
5. Bungee cord to hang the caliper.
*If calipers look too worn, you may want to buy rebuilt calipers.

REAR:
1. Rotor (same as above)
2. Pads (same as above, I used Roulands-Dan Block OEM pads)
3. New caliper bolts.
4. New hardware (Retainer springs & pins by Scan tech Sweden).
5. New shims (half-size shims are highly recommended to stop squeak).

â—�The rotors on Volvos should be replaced at every other pads change. Also, I agree with Jim that I wouldn't use anything other than the OEM parts, and the price difference is almost negligible.

â—�Make sure to get new half-size shims for the rear, as well as the retainer kit. Also, apply silicone/moly-based grease (cv-joint grease) on every metal-to-metal contact surface EXCEPT the friction surfaces.

â—�To compress the piston, I use 10WR Vise-grip. Just keep an eye on it to avoid over-compressing it.

â—�The front pad retainer spring may be a bit difficult to put on, but with several trials & cussing you'll be able to put it on.

â—�Use torque wrench for tightening the caliper bracket bolts,slider bolts and rear caliper bolts.

â—�Be careful when you do the rears, as it is not clear as to where you can set the jackstands. I use the factory scissors jack on the side of the body and then put a large truck tyre with the wheel under the body. But wait till someone gives you better method, I wouldn't recommend my method to anyone unless he/she knows exactly what they're doing.

Good luck & be safe.


JPN

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What year is yours? My slider pints arent held in with hex bolts as your listexplained.

 

What are yours held in with? All 850 brake calipers are the same (mechanically) last time I checked. My 94 has the aforementioned hex (allen) pins.

 

Every year from '92 to '97 has had 7mm hex bolts on the front calipers.

If yours are different then somebody has changed them. I have seen that before when the bolts have been damaged removing them.

 

Cool. Thanks for all the information. I'm planning this job for my sister's car on Saturday. Is it absolutely necessary to replace the rear caliper bolts even if you don't replace the rotor?

 

To compress the pistons I used a flat head screw driver. Using leverage from the rotor (carfull if you are re-using yours) to push the pistons back in. I was using the old rotors, so I didn't care if they got damage. It was very easy though. I also used a punch and hammer to knock out the retaining pins.
Here is what mine looked like.[:-]

Nick

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Hi Miatamon,

If you did not replace the rear rotors, or didn't remove the calipers, no you do not have to replace the bolts. The bolts need be replaced only if they are bothered. But make sure that the rotor thickness hasn't gone beyond the minimum spec.


JPN

 

Your can re-use the original bolts and all the hardware. Simply clean them up with a bit of steel wool. What is important is that you bleed the system and refill with Dot 4 fluid. I use ATE super blue and rotate the next time with ATE gold. It is then quite easy to tell when you have flushed the "old" fluid. I use both a vacuum bleeder and also the pressure bleeder. Either one will do the trick. What you do not want to do is have your buddy press on the brake pedal to force out the old fluid. What happens is that you push the piston to the 'rusted' area of the cylinder and then you have a leaky master cylinder in a couple of months.

r.

 

>Your can re-use the original bolts and all the hardware.

I don't mean to deny your opinion, but Haynes manual states that all caliper/bracket bolts have to be replaced (except the slider pins, but if someoneinstalled different pins, I would switch back to the original allen-type and apply synthetic slider-pin grease to the pins) once they are removed (and they are only a few dollars each). The new bolts come with thread lock applied to them. Also, I would highly recommend that the rear retainer spring kits be replaced; the originals may be corroded (mine was not reusable due to corrosion) or may have lost designed tension. And the kit is only $6 (excluding shipping) at FCP Groton:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850brakes.htm

I personally believe they are well worth the money. Also, many people stated that the half-shims are the only solution to squeaking. But note, I'm an@l when it comes to safety and this is my personal opinion.

Good luck with the job.


JPN

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Only needed the half shims on my 97 R. Do not have them on my 98 V70, 95 T5R or on the 94 Turbo I had previously. If you get OEM rotors they come with new bolts to hold the calibper on. Ihave used the same springs over and over. Matter of fact I never remember replacing them. But that might be because my cars are always kept in a garage. If they looked corroded I would replace.To do all four wheels on an 850 shouldn't take you more than two hours. Unless you brake off a bolt like I did, which turned itinto an all day thing.

 

I only did my rear calipers. Not the fronts. And the pins are just straight pins like most.

 

I used Brembo rotors and they didn't come with new bolts (and the rotors were NOT made in Italy[8D]). I would go with one of the following:

1. Genuine Volvo
2. Zimmermann (probably German, judging from the name)
3. ATE (German mfg but not sure if their rotors are mfged in Germany)

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850brakes.htm

Remember, the brakes are the most important safety feature on automobiles so don't try to save a few dollars for lesser quality parts, unless you plan to sell the car soon.

Enough burble.


JPN

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