Been having some squeaking sounds from the top of the front passenger strut. Upon further evaluation, the strut actually moves up and down in the mount and the bushing is clearly shot (you can turn it and all).

So yes, apparently i'm in the market for at least 1 new strut mount (but of course i'm thinking of the pair, no point in just doing one).

Looks like it's a little beyond my knowledge though as that spring kind of scares me (never compressed a spring before, and really don't want to risk it). So i'm going to take it in to my mechanic.

Now this guy runs a nice little foreign car repair shop and he's done work on my car before. He's inexpensive (Volvo wanted $700 for the wheel bearings job, he did it for $250) and very knowledgeable. He says the repair, if it's only the spring seats, will cost me about a $100 total (both sides, part and labor) - ok cool, sounds good. But if it's the strut mount plate at the top and the spring seat then i'm looking at $490 parts and labor for both sides.

Ok, so if I'm close to $500 then anyway, should I just have him replace the struts, the bump stop, the top cap, and all the little jazz that goes with it - a complete reconstruction?

And in the event I go that route, should I replace the spring coil too? Do those typically need to be replaced?

As a side note, I don't think there's anything wrong with the struts, they don't leak, or make noise, the recovery from bumps seems fine.... it's just that noisy top end. But while reading all of the past posts - it seems that people recommend that if you're replacing the top strut mount, it really isn't more much of a job to replace the struts all together.

Also, I've had the car a little over 3 years, probably added about 50K to it, and have not done anything to the suspension thus far. It's argueable, but some would say i'm due for a strut-change anyway (you rich SOBs).

Thanks for the help.

 

IMO if they ride fine and don't leak I would leave them alone.
I have never replaced the bearing plate on any of the 850's. I have only ever replaced the seats and thats all.

 

Meaning that "usually"you don't need to replace the plate? The seats replacement should do it?

My mechanic seems to think the same thing, I asked about the plate and he made it sound like we wouldn't need to do that. But he told me the pricing anyway.

 

Yes I usually don't replace the plate only the spring seat.

 

Unless they are broken, or the cars is sagging/ride height off, the spings should be fine.

 

>Been having some squeaking sounds from the top of the front passenger strut.
Welcome to the club!

When I did my all fours, I went ahead and replaced the heck out of almost all components except the coil springs & stabiliser bars.

You do not have to replace the struts at this point, but if you replace the struts, shocks and the stab end link rods, you would notice difference;sharper handling and better ride, amazing for an outdated McPherson design.

No, I am not a rich SOB, though I wish I was.


JPN

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/8755E41254EC42E4BFD5ADCB3BF9A912.jpg[/IMG]

 

I'll be doing this myself, I have the mounts, but I have no time so I will be waiting till spring to do it. Shouldn't be too hard... I may also get some lowering coils while I'm at it.

 

I would love to do the entire job, but unless I have to... I'd rather not go further into debt at this point.

But then again.... I do love this car, I would love to have a nicer ride, and if it comes down to replacing those top mounts all together, then most likely i'll just have it all done (since at that point, it's really not much extra work).

Thanks for the info. guys. The mechanic will see my car on monday and we'll see what the damage is.

 

The top mount is nothing more than a bearing housing, and unless it is physically damaged or you hear noise when turning the steering, you do not have to replace them (though I did feel happy to see clean new OEM parts). You can defer the struts, shocks and the stab end links until you have saved for them. No hurry.

When you have saved up, I would replace those parts as well as items such as the bump stops, top caps, special washers, etc... I believe those small parts do help give you better ride, though this may just be a placebo effect...


JPN

 

I would try to do it yourself.

Get a Haynes manual and then your required parts.

I would replace struts, mounts, and the rubber stops.

 

The most risky part is the compressing of the coils. Will reply when I get back.


JPN

 

I didn't even want to imagine messing with those coils, and spending all afternoon and some, pissed off under a deconstructed suspension system. Took it into the mechanic, replaced the rubber bushings, (which I believe is called the spring seat), did both sides just to be safe - great guy, but his prices seemed to go up recently.

Both sides, total of 2.5 hours of labor (said it took 3 and he's giving me a deal) at $80/hr = $200

Plus parts & tax, Total: $277.76

Not too bad I guess. Rides great, no more squeaking, and I think it's smoother now on the interstate, when i'm cruising at 75MPH+

This mechanic does great work. But you know there's something to be said about the mechanic that wants to talk about your car with you. Mine is always so busy and he's hungarian, so there's a bit of a language barrier (maybe more subconscious tones in conversation type stuff, if that makes sense). With his price going up, I might look for a better mechanic. I saw a Volvo specialty place in the slums behind downtown Denver somewhere - Commerce City? maybe Aurora? (no offense Aurora). Looking for $65 or so an hour - is this realistic? What do you guys pay?

 

DO NOT BE AFRAID OF THE COILS, go to Harbor Frieght and get a spring compressor! they are 2 bolts with hooks on each end as you tighten them each hook grabs a spring wind and compresses it, you have 2 one on each side of the spring, then as one compresses go to the other side and compress it a little further go back and forth till all the spring pressure is released...then go about removal...really simple once you see the design of a spring compressor (never mind the 4 little hooks in the center of the pic)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3980
you will see how it works, then you go to autozone and get 2 struts for $60 each, install them so for the tool and everything you have <$150...

Grease it very well as u put it back together and Viola, you are in business should take <1 Hr each...provided you have an air compressor and some air tools...

 

I always just rent the spring compressors from O'Reilly. I think they ding my credit card for $60.00 or so butthe chargeis refunded in full if they are returned within 48 hours. They are usually in fairly rough (beaten like a rented mule) shape but they work.

An air gun does make it much quicker and easier. Just walkthe spring compressorfrom side to side as you compress it down and all should be good.

...Lee

 

I need one and I think I will do a post here tonight provided I don't go to Detroit and pick up my 3rd Volvo to complete my second and strip for parts. But If I do, I'll get some pics of the clock and do a start to finish write up on a strut replacement.

 

Sorry for delayed reply.

The spring compressors in the pic above are probably the same pair as mine; Blue Point. I think I paid about $60 for them. They are easy to use. However, they must be placed 180 degrees apart from each other and avoid having them getting closer. I also rent out another pair from AutoZone (same deal as O’Riley except AutoZone lets you rent for a week or so) and use one of them as the 3rd compressor for added safety (hey, I am a live coward). And yes, a power tool (impact gun) would make the job easier.

On the other hand, if you have doubts or do not feel confident enough, let someone elsehave the privilegefor the risk(if done right with attention to detail, the job is not all that bad, but the best thing to do is to have a skilled person show you how to do the job).

>(maybe more subconscious tones in conversation type stuff, if that makes sense).
That is a deep analysis[&:].


JPN